Arca-Swiss D4 review

Arca-Swiss D4 head with classic screw clamp (locking screw is the black knob, top left in the picture). The two large light gray rubberized knobs are the pitch (left) and roll (bottom right) gears. The triangular large knobs are the (un)locking knobs for the geared pitch and roll (middle and right in the picture). The top panorama locking knob is hidden behind the clamp, it's the same as the small triangular knob on the base panorama.

In a nutshell

• Geared head with two geared axes: roll (tilt left/right) and pitch (tilt backward/forward), and two panorama (yaw) axes on base and top which are not geared.
• Pitch range: about 40 degrees up/backward and about 100 degrees down/forward. The up-scale goes to 45 degrees but the locking lever collides with the chassis and limits the range to about 40. The down-scale goes to 90 degrees but there is about 10 degrees extra movement range.
• Roll range: about +/- 35 degrees, the scale covers +/-30.
• Base and top 360 degree panorama, no scale on base, 5 degree interval on scale on top. Note that the scale requires that the clamp has a pointer that points out the position on the scale, which the original clamps do.
• Rubber-covered knobs for the geared axes, one turn changes roll/pitch with about 8 degrees.
• Rubber-covered triangular (un)locking knobs for geared axes to allow free movement similar to a wimberley head and quick setting of large roll/pitch changes. The locking knobs work just as for a ball head, that is a friction lock you need to fasten tightly to have the gear secure.
• Small triangular locking knobs for the panorama axes. The lock/unlock position of the bottom knob is designed such that it will not get in the way for wide base tripods.
• Nowadays (2013 at the time of writing) the quick-release clamps are mounted with high temperature Loctite glue so they are not user-changeable. They can be changed to another of Arca-Swiss' own clamps by an authorized service center, for a fee. Older heads used a low temperature Loctite so it was quite easy to switch clamps, but this is no longer the case.
• Can handle as much as 30kg gear according to specification, but to be realistic the ergonomics is suitable for about 6-7 kg.
• Weight (with classic screw clamp): 960 grams
• Size: W x H x D = 10 x 13 x 11 cm, including knobs.

Why a geared tripod head?

The drawbacks with geared heads is that they are heavier, more expensive and can generally not be used for action photography (track a moving subject). On the action bit the Arca-Swiss D4 is an exception though as we shall see.

Where does the Arca-Swiss D4 fit in?

Note that while 960 grams is indeed light for a geared head it's about twice as much as a ball-head of similar capacity. So if you really need light and you can live without gears, a ball-head is a better option. You could also look into the D4m which is an ungeared version of the D4. The advantage of that compared to a ball head is that while no gears you can still lock each axis separately.

For studio use I'd probably choose a larger head like the Manfrotto 405 which thanks to the size has better ergonomics, and it's also substantially cheaper.

For handling extremely heavy and tippy gear, such as a studio view camera, the Arca-Swiss Cube or Linhof 3D micro or similar cube-like design is better because you then get the rotation axis located near the center of the camera, rather than in the center of the head like for the D4. If you have heavy gear you'll notice that you need to put in quite some force to adjust the camera if you have a large pitch. I don't think it's a real problem for my 4 kg Linhof Techno with sliding back on though, so I'd say the D4 is adequate for a very wide range of camera systems.

Cube-like designs can also be preferred in table top or macro photography as the lens moves around less when adjusting.

The gears

You still need to apply some force, so don't expect super-smooth effort-free pitch and roll. As the rotation axis is inside the head it means the more you pitch or roll the camera so the weight is shifted to the side the more force you need to apply on the knobs. It's good grip though so I don't see this as a problem, but with heavy gear a cube head will give you smoother operation. Adjusting the camera position with the D4 gears does have a "jerky" feel to it, but fine-tuning still works well so it's more an issue about elegance than actual usability.

The speed of the gears is a trade-off between smooth fine-tuning and being able to reasonably fast change pitch/roll with a larger amount. Maybe one would like a bit slower gears for the fine-tuning but overall I think it's a good trade-off.

Instead of a single base geared yaw you get ungeared base and top yaw which is a more all-around solution and makes the head lighter and more compact so I think it's a very good trade-off. For studio or other work on a floor I would however prefer three geared axes (assuming a level tripod base, which is easy to maintain on a floor).

Dual panoramic rotation

However, if your composition requires pitch the top yaw axis will be pitched too, meaning that the camera will roll if you turn it there. Then it is better to use the base pano. In this case you'd ideally want to base to be completely level of course, and for that you would need a leveling base on the tripod. You can have that, or to save weight and space you skip it and compensate if required with the roll axis after yaw. I do the latter. When you use the head unlocked to track action with your telephoto lens you'd typically have the bottom yaw and pitch unlocked, while roll and top yaw is locked. Then it will work similarly to a wimberley head (without the self-balancing though, so don't let go of your camera when the head is unlocked!).

Some geared heads need space around its base to avoid collision of the knobs with the tripod base when applying large pitch. The wide base of my Gitzo tripod is a problem for my old Manfrotto 410 so I had a narrow leveling head as spacer. The D4 does not have this problem. The base yaw locking knob may look like it needs space below but it comes to unlocked position without requiring going below the base. There are only two geared axes, while many geared heads (like the Manfrottos) have also the pano/yaw geared. Am I missing geared yaw? Not really and the reason is that the pano axis is fairly level (either the top or the base) and thus you can easily make precise adjustments even with a heavy camera on top. With roll and pitch you need to shift weight and then gearing is much more needed. For this reason I don't think the D4m (the version without gears) is a great option, but I would guess it's still easier to make precise adjustments with that than a ball head.

Large pitches

The D4 head with 90 degree pitch holding a Linhof Techno with sliding back.

If you need to point the camera up more than those 40 degrees you simply rotate the top pano so the camera is pointing backwards and you then can make use of the +100 degrees to make the camera point up.

Having this large movement range geared all the way is quite unusual for geared heads. While an L-bracket solves the problem in such cases it's nice to have it all integrated in the head.

When you have the camera pointing straight up or down you will typically need the top pano axis to make it level. Then you will note if your camera is unbalanced, and if it it is, it can be a bit cumbersome to work with. My Linhof Techno with sliding back gets unbalanced and tippy so in this position it is a bit awkward to work with the head but it works.

Safety

Note that as the locking knobs are friction locks you need to tighten them forcefully, just as on a ball head. The first day I had the D4 being used with the Manfrotto 410 (where you never need to apply any force) I just loosely tightened the locking knob, and when I moved the tripod slightly the camera tipped over and I got a finger inbetween. You learn well through pain and I have never made that mistake again.

Some prefer the cube heads due to that they cannot be unlocked, so there is no risk of doing this mistake. However after more than a year in use I have never been close to that accident again so I do appreciate the ability to unlock (makes large adjustments speedier, and makes the head more all-around) and I think the safety risk is acceptable.

Clamp is no longer user-replaceable

The clamp can be switched to any of the three Arca-Swiss clamps by the service center for a fee. However, you are no longer free to do this yourself or use third-party clamps of your choice.

Arca-Swiss is not alone when it comes to gluing the clamps to block user customization, some manufacturers do and some don't. I think it's sad that Arca-Swiss has now joined those that do. Even if you like Arca-Swiss' clamps you may want to change clamp depending on what you want to do. For example use a flip-lock clamp when you go out with the DSLR and want the speed, and change to a screw clamp when you bring you tech camera for a long hike and want maximum robustness.

If I remember correctly you could originally buy the D4 head without clamp, but that is no longer possible. However, if you really want to be able to switch clamps do contact the dealer before buy and make that clear, possibly you could talk them into making an exception. Arca-Swiss has at least in the past been responsive to such user requests.

Arca-Swiss quick-release clamps

Arca-Swiss have three clamps in their lineup: classic screw-clamp, classic flip-lock and the new flip-lock design called "monoballfix".

Arca-Swiss clamps have smaller knobs/levers than the popular alternatives. Both the "classic" clamps have dual dove-tail rails, one narrower for the Arca-Swiss view camera rails and narrow plates and one wider on top for the "de-facto" standard Arca-Swiss dove-tail plates. The latest addition the "monoballfix" only supports the narrow plates.

If you want a standard that works between brands it's the wider plate you should use. If you use a flip-lock style clamp very slight width variations in the plates will make them sit too loose or too tight in the clamp, which make it important to have all plates from the same brand. Many flip-lock clamps have a tuning screw to set the pressure so you can adjust it for your brand and your taste (the Arca-Swiss flip-lock clamp has that too), but it's not anything you want to set often so do make sure you have one set of compatible plates.

Screw clamps on the other hands can accommodate plate width variations without issues.

When it comes to flip-lock I would myself prefer a large lever easy to operate with gloves (as I often work in cold weather), and not have a tuning mechanism but rather rely on high precision plates specially made for the clamp. Really Right Stuff has such a clamp, Arca-Swiss doesn't. The tiny levers made me go for the screw clamp instead, which is the only Arca-Swiss clamp I have hands-on experience from so I cannot make a real review of the other two. From user comments and videos it's apparent that they are not good for glove operation though.

Concerning the screw-clamp I'd like a larger knob with rubber coating and only one rail, the wider one, and I'd like to have it wider and round matching the size of the top surface. It would make it look better and have a better tactile feel for "blind" inserts (I usually mount a Linhof Techno on it which have a huge base plate so you don't see the clamp when you attach the camera). However the current design works okay and the knob can be operated with gloves, so it's fine although there are even better designs from other brands.

Many choose flip-lock clamps because the fast insert/release procedure and that they are more elegant, there are however some arguments for using screw clamps:

• Can handle plates from different brands due to that it's not sensitive for slight plate width variations
• Higher pressure on the plate, that is your camera gear sits harder/safer.
• Easily operated with gloves, and requires less force to secure the plate.
• Simpler more robust design, less sensitive in tough environments.
• With long plates it can be used as a poor man's macro rail by releasing just a little and adjust plate position. (note: some flip-lock designs also allows this).

Compared to the Manfrotto 410

The D4 with my old Manfrotto 410 in the background, modified with a Hejnar Photo dovetail plate screw clamp. The leveling head to the right was used as a spacer for the 410 to avoid it's bottom knob to collide with the wide Gitzo tripod base. The D4 does not need any such spacing.

The price difference does make a difference in quality too. The D4 is a very high quality piece of equipment, while you may note some issues with the 410. The quick-release plate of the 410 varies between copies, some are smooth, some are very hard to work with. I replaced the original quick release with a dove-tail screw clamp from Hejnar Photo, which is a modification I recommend. The difference in quality also make it possible to have substantially heavier gear on the D4 than on the 410.

There is one feature I miss from the 410, it has very elegant gear unlocking feature, you turn the knob in the opposite direction (spring-loaded) to unlock the gear. As soon as you release the knob the gear is locked. With the D4 you have two extra knobs for locking and these work as ordinary ball-head style friction locks, that is you need to make sure they are appropriately fastened or else your camera can suddenly tip over. From an ergonomic standpoint I prefer the 410 design, but it probably has drawbacks concerning size and robustness. I would also not want to lose the "unlocked mode" feature for my occasional telephoto work, so the current D4 locking design is after-all a good trade-off.

Manfrotto also makes the bigger brother 405 which can handle a little heavier gear, but its size and weight of 1.6kg makes it primarily a studio piece.

Compared to the Arca-Swiss Cube

• Roll/Pitch axis: by design the roll/pitch axis are located closer to the camera mass center with the Cube which translates to that you need to apply less force on the knobs to adjust the camera position, that is better ergonomics, a smoother feel and less moving of lens when adjusting (good for table top and macro photography).
• Large pitches: the Cube needs manual unlocking and gear-less adding of 60 degrees to get into 90 degree pitch, while the D4 has gearing the full range -40/+100.
• Weight: the Cube weighs about 1100 grams, 140 grams more than the D4.
• Locks: the Cube gears cannot be unlocked: less flexibility/speed but safer.
• Sealing: the fine mechanics of the Cube is a more exposed which might be an issue in tough environments.
• Price: the Cube is substantially more expensive.

Other geared heads

• Arca-Swiss D4: discussed in this review.
• Arca-Swiss C1 Cube: discussed in this review.
• KPS T5: geared ball head (unique design?), very high quality can handle heavy gear. The cheapest alternative of the geared heads that have the level of quality required for play-free operation with heavy gear.
• Manfrotto 410: discussed in this review.
• Manfrotto 405: bigger brother of the 410, I think it's a bit too heavy for field work and still have some issues with play.
• Manfrotto XPro: new lightweight head (only 750 grams) of similar design as the 410, but even less stable.
• Linhof 3D micro: a high quality cube design, but with less movement range than Arca-Swiss Cube.
• Sunwayfoto GH-Pro: smaller and lighter D4 design, cannot handle heavy gear well. For small light gear it can be a good lightweight and budget alternative.

Perhaps the most interesting competition is the KPS T5. It has the required quality, and it's cheaper than the D4 although not so much that it becomes a factor. The D4 is a bit more flexible in movements, but the weight of the KPS T5 is claimed to be 772 grams, that is 190 grams lighter than the D4. If you hunt for low weight you should definitely look into that.

When you use heavy camera gear like myself gaining 200 grams on the head doesn't really matter for the total weight. However the tripod may become more balanced when you carry it, and if you carry it on a backpack on the side or on the back far out from your body shaving off a few hundred grams can make a difference in carrying ergonomics.

If you have a heavy camera, like a view camera, and is looking for a stable platform without any issues with play it's a bit depressive to see that the cheapest working alternative is KPS T5 at about 800 USD, which with import taxes may become significantly more depending on where you live, but that is the deal if you want geared axes. That is even if the D4 is an expensive head, the competing products with similar quality and feature sets also have similar prices.

Long-term report

No problems yet, but it's clear that the rubber on the knobs will eventually give out, and I've heard such reports from the Arca-Swiss Cube. It should take many years and should be serviceable though.

The head does not come with any protective cover, and I've carried it on the tripod "naked" most of the time. This means that from time to time you knock the head into trees etc. This is not ideal for the head with knobs sticking out here and there. My D4 is still working fine despite having a few hits, but I'd recommend to make some home-made protective cover with padding to protect it better.

I've heard that one quality issue is that the screw heads may rust. I have not had such problems, but then I don't use it in salt water conditions so I can't really say anything about that. When I come in from a rainy session I wipe off the worst and let it air dry in room temperature, that has worked well so far.

I've used it in quite cold conditions (-30C). In general geared equipment sometimes get overly stiff in cold conditions due to stiffening oil, but I haven't experienced such problems with the D4. The gears do get stiffer, but not too much.

I actually don't use the top pano as much as I thought I would. The "standard use case" is to level the camera with the gears, and then adjust direction with the top pano. However, to avoid that the geared axes get in a strange orientation compared to the camera you only want to make fine-tunings with the top pano, and when you only do that the bottom pano is quite fine too as small adjustments don't necessarily disturb the leveling that much. It does require that you set up the tripod fairly level, which I do in any case to maximize its stability.

I do use the top pano from time to time for fine-tuning, but if it wasn't there I wouldn't suffer too much from it except when the camera is pointed in vertical orientation when it's needed for this head. If I would do stitched panoramas (which I generally don't) the top pano would be more used too.

This means that the lack of top pano of the KPS T5 and Manfrotto 410 is not that bad after-all.

Concluding discussion

The quality is very high and it can handle heavier cameras with less vibration issues than lower cost heads, despite that the head itself typically weighs considerably less. This is what you pay for. If you have a camera system that weighs 2 kgs or less and weight and compactness is not so important there are cheaper geared heads that can do just as well though, such as the very economical Manfrotto 410. With light gear I'd also suggest to have a look at the lightweight Sunwayfoto GH-Pro head.

Compared to larger geared heads there is some compromise in ergonomics to get a more compact and light head, so for studio work there are better alternatives, mainly Arca-Swiss own C1 Cube.

While the head has excellent design not to be found elsewhere, many find the Arca-Swiss quick-release system to be mediocre compared to the competition. It works so you can live with it (and some even think they are good), but there is no coincidence that substituting a Really Right Stuff clamp (for example) on Arca-Swiss heads has been a very popular user modification. Unfortunately Arca-Swiss nowadays glue the bolt to hinder such user modification. If you want to replace the clamp talk to the dealer before buy.

Revision history

• December 2015 - first published, but most text was written back in 2013.